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Itineraries — Fall 2010: Cross Country — Spring 2011: Cross Country Tour  | Festivals Tour
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— Arise at 0600 (if you wish) and accompany Robin to the Zangtoepelri Temple (Paradise Temple) in the center of Thimphu, where we hope to find pilgrims who have labored on foot over high mountain passes to worship and seek blessings from the lama there. Then on to the Memorial Chorten where local residents come in the morning to chant their daily prayers as they walk clockwise around the Chorten, spinning prayer wheels as they pass fragrant columns of smoke from smoldering juniper branches that carry a stream of prayers to the mountain deities. Bring a tripod and shoot high ISO—sunlight doesn’t hit here ‘til late morning. Breakfast at 9 a.m., then pack and meet your guide and driver in front of the hotel at 10 a.m. We then begin our journey to the East, en route stopping at 10,500 ft. Dochula Pass for tea and biscuits and enjoy our first view of the eastern Himalayan mountains. Here we can spend some time photographing the Druk Wangyal Chortens. Built in 2004 to “...celebrate the stability and progress that His Majesty has brought to the nation,” this hill of 108 religious buildings in the middle of the pass reflect Bhutan’s spiritual and artistic traditions. Pay particular attention to the fields of colorful prayer flags to the right and position yourself within them, shooting back at the chortens using the prayer flags as edges of your frame.
Pilgrim
0630 hrs. Pilgrim Lighting Incense at Memorial Chorten in Thimphu

Then it’s on to Wangduephodrang—shortened to Wangdi by the locals—where the most prominent feature is the Wangdi Dzong sitting on a mountain spur commanding an archer’s view of two rivers. But on the way, after lunch, we visit Punakha Dzong where we can photograph the numerous interior courtyards with massive golden doors and the new cantilevered covered bridge. Built in 1637 between the confluence of the Po Chu (male river) and Mo Chu (female river,) this fortress monastery is the winter residence of Bhutan’s spiritual leader, the Je Khenpo or Head Abbot, and the central Monk Body—350 monks in total. It is fronted by majestic jacaranda trees that should be in bloom during our visit, with purple flowers framing the dzong’s elaborately hand-carved and painted windows.

Beyond Punakha and Wangdi we check in at Kichu Resort on the edge of the rapids of the Dangchu River. We always get a good night’s sleep here, listening to the water tumble over boulders the size of Volkswagens. Kichu is a private resort and there is the slight chance we would be bumped by their own guests, but if that happens the alternative hotel is Dragon’s Nest, a classy place overlooking the wide and calm river at Wangdi.  

Kichu Resort'
River sounds put you to sleep
at the upscale Kichu Resort.

Note: Our guides and drivers will bring along a sufficient number of traditional giant lawn darts and colorful targets—the game is called Kuru—so expect impromptu matches to ensue between them and tour participants. We have also made arrangements to have a formal match in Ugen Choling between villagers and guides and drivers. The Bhutanese are very competitive and often engage in a traditional roadside game of Dago where rocks are lobbed at a wooden peg, much like horseshoes. We have even seen school children throwing their pencils at targets on the playground during recess.  (Robin published a story in Tashi Delek Magazine, available on the Rainbow web site.) Read Article